Horse Training

Lone Oak Horse Training and Rehab

Wendy Brown Specializing in Reining, Cutting, Barrel Racing, Gaming, Working Cow Horse, Mustangs, Trail, and Driving

Deitra Blevins Specializing in English and Western Pleasure, Horsemanship, Showmanship, Trail

We are Dedicated to the utmost quality in training of any and all equine.  With 50+ years of combined training experience we will work hard for you so that you will have the equine you desire.  We work with horses for every discipline except jumping and dressage.  We do not have one specific training method.  Each horse is different and we treat them as such.  We guarantee your horse will be what you want when we are finished with them or your money back!!!!!    We are happy to provide references.  ****We also truly enjoy working with Mustangs so feel free to ask.....Prices are different for each discipline and they are based on a 30 day schedule. They are as follows.......

Never been touched, handled, etc.(basic halter training and leading skills)----$125.00

Driving from the ground up $350.00

Refresher Course on Driving- $275.00

Halter Training(as in AQHA showing)-$225.00

Training from the ground up-$350.00 for the first 30 days-$100.00 for every 10 days that follows

Western Pleasure, English, Trail-(discipline has never been introduced to the horse)-$300.00

Western Pleasure, English, Trail-(fine tuning only)-$250.00

Barrel Racing, Pole Bending, all other gaming(discipline has never been introduced to the horse)-$325.00

Barrel Racing, etc (fine tuning or retraining)-$250.00

***********All horses brought to us MUST have (especially ones you are preparing for speed events) a clean bill of health from your vet.  We will not attempt to train a horse in a strenuous discipline if they have or have had an injury that would hamper them in any way.

We prefer to work with the horses at Lone Oak and if you are not going to supply the feed we require $3.00 a day for feed.  A detailed list of the products you buy for your horse to consume is a must if we are to supply the feed.

Feel free to call or email with any questions you may have or to set up a meeting, etc.  loneoakfarms02@yahoo.com    When emailing please make subject line "Horse Training"   Thanks so much and we are looking forward to working for you and your horse.

**We are always happy to work with an individual to enhance their riding skills.  Feel free to ask questions because that is the only way to obtain new knowledge.  We are happy to oblige.**

REHABILITATION-

To restore to former capacity, to restore to good condition or health...............

I have had great success in the past with rehabbing equine.  Rehab not only consists of wounds or injuries but also includes restoring the mind of the equine.  Perhaps your horse has been in an accident of some sort or has come into contact with the wrong human at some point in their life.  A sound mind in a horse is just as important as a sound body.  I am happy to answer questions via internet or phone and if your close enough I will be happy to come visit you and your horse.  I AM NOT a horse psychic or anything of the sort I simply work with each individual horse as a teacher would work with a student.  All equines are unique and have their own quirks and personalities I make it my business to delve into their unique world and figure them out and work on the problem or problems that they may have................

I also accept equine to work with on a 30 day at a time basis when the owner does not have time.  I charge $3.00 a day for my time.  Medications, hay and grain are the sole responsibility of the owner.  Contract applies.

 

 

Introducing Deitra Blevins of Lone Oak.  Deitra has many years of equine experience and now is a valued full partner of Lone Oak.  As a show trainer Mrs. Blevins is extremely knowledgeable and is a welcome breath of fresh air to Lone Oak.  A special Thank you to Deitra and her family for the work they do with horses.

Let's Talk Horse

Horse Conformation

 

1) Poll     2) Crest     3) Forehead     4) Nostrils     5) Muzzle     6) Point of Shoulder     7) Breast     8) Chest

9) Forearm     10) Knee     11) Coronet     12) Hoof     13) Pastern     14) Sesamoid     15) Flexor Tendons

16) Fetlock     17) Cannon     18) Underline     19) Hock     20) Gaskin     21) Stifle     22) Flank     23) Loin

24) Croup     25) Back     26) Withers     27) Throat Latch     28) Neck     29) Shoulder     30) Barrel     31) Girth

32) Elbow     33) Hindquarters

 

Specializing in 4-H Showing

Work out

Blaze has a tendency to tigthen up in the high back or whithers area.  So before and after the riding part of the training we do a little stretching.  If you notice Blaze is so worried about this excercise she isn't even paying attention-haha

I believe flexibitlity is one of the most important things your horse can have so here is a photo of me asking for flexing and she is responding very nicely.  This also helps with her tightening problem

Asking her to yield her head and neck while I am on her back

In this one I am asking for her to give to a small amount of pressure and slow down and drop her head

The end result for this days trainingShe has dropped her head and is moving out nicely in a smooth and relaxed form.

Saturday June 9th 2007-

Blaze went through 2 seperate forms of training during her time with me.

First was trail riding and the second was Barrels.  She performed exceptionally well in both training areas.

The following photos are of Blazes last day here with me and we spent most of the day with her family.  Thank you to Blazes Family for entrusting me with her care and training.....It has been my pleasure :)

 Blaze looking beautiful during her warm up

Blaze and her young owner getting to know each other again

I really like this picture so I am going to post it.  Nicole, Blaze and Carla

Using a whip WITH a Horse

Please notice this schooling technique is "Using a whip WITH a horse not ON a horse"

I am a big believer in "bomb proof" horses.  I use a whip as a tool.  I DO NOT hit or threaten a horse with a whip.  A whip can come in very handy in teaching your horse that no matter how spooky things may seem it is really ok not to turn and run or jump out of their skin while dumping you head first in the dirt.  Horses are flight animals.  They are born with the knowledge to get away from danger as quickly and swiftly as possible.  You as an owner must work to earn that horses trust.  Let them know that you are there to take care of them and "protect" them.  There is no better friend then a horse when you have their trust and respect.

Always start on the ground with your horse.  Don't go flinging the whip around the horse or in its face unless you are looking for trouble right off the bat.  Using a whip to help in your training with your horse is your base ingredients for preparing your horse for things to come.  Perhaps it is roping or parades etc

  To begin make sure your horse has enough room to make them feel comfortable.  You never want to make your horse feel that they are trapped.  Talk to your horse, as you can see in the pic Baby is not real sure about what we are doing but she is listening to me.  Move slowly keeping the whip in the dirt.  Move the whip back and forth getting closer each time.  If at anytime your horse feels uncomfortable or moves away from you in fear just stop and start all over remember PATIENCE will take you miles in the eyes of a horse.

 Then start moving the whip up and onto the body.  Never make quick movements or hit the horse with the whip.  Begin to rub the body of your horse working both sides equally.

  Then start moving towards the front of the horses body.  Working the whip all over.  Baby is still listening to me but I have also given her the freedom to look arond at the whip as it dangles off her back on her right side.  She is not worried she is relaxed.

  Next work your way up under the horse.  Rub the whip up and down the legs inside and out.  Work from the ground up to the belly, rub the belly the legs and the flanks.

  Then work on the front and the back of the horse.  Remember slow and steady stay the course.  By this point Baby is not longer really concerned about anything I am doing.

  Make sure you touch every part of the horses body.  You don't want any "spook zones"  You can even swing the rope around your head (never touching the horse) mimicking the actions of a roper.

Repeat this exercise about once a week for a couple of months.  To up the training on your horses and help with the despooking process once your horse has absolutely accepted the first exercise, tie a white plastic bag onto the end of the whip and start the exercise from step one.  Then after all has been accepted by your horse tie a large black trash bag on the end of the whip and repeat entire process.  Patience, Patience, Patience.  You are on the road to having a horse that trusts you enough to go anywhere for you.  Remember, Be careful and have fun.

 

 

How to Bridle your Horse

How to Bridle your Horse-

Number #1 rule is to make sure that your tack is ALWAYS in working order.  Keep your leathers clean and soft.  If equipment is getting worn or will pose a danger (break) while working or riding your horse REPLACE IT!!!!  Don't allow cracks or breaks in your leather or rust on your bit.  If you use one bridle for more than one horse make sure you disinfect the entire bridle (make sure you rinse off well) before using it on another horse.  Same goes for your halters.

 

 

First rule of thumb is make sure you do not let your horse go during the bridling process.  When you take the halter off immediately reattach it around your horses neck.  You will not have complete control but at least you still have your horse.  It is much better than chasing your horse down the street, around the arena, or watching helplessly as your horse plows through a crowd of people and horses.

Hold the top of the bridle in one hand and the bit in the other.  Bring your hand holding the top of the bridle between the horses ears.  **Make sure you have the correct bit for your horse** Place your thumb (while holding the bit) in the horses mouth behind the teeth and gently massage the gum.

When your horse opens its mouth lift the top of the bridle and gently manuever the bit into the horses mouth.  DO NOT "slam" the bit into the mouth.  You wouldn't like it if someone slammed you in the teeth with a metal bar and neither does your horse.

Then calmly and quitely pull the top of the headstall over the horses ears and gently manuever the ears and hair into position. Then tighten the throat latch (if there is one)  Make sure all parts of the bridle fit comfortably.  You know your bit is fitting properly when your horses mouth is pulled back into a "slight smile"

You should be ready to go.  Remove halter and hang it up and enjoy your ride.

 

UNBRIDLING-

Put your halter back on the horses neck.

Gently slide the headstall off of the ears

Place your hand under the horses mouth and let the bit slide into your hand.

After the bit has cleared the horses mouth remove the bridle completely and place the halter back on the horse and your set.

 

 

Spook Proof

I am getting way to old to have a horse blow up under me because a shadow or stray bunny rabbit jumped out of a bush :)  Before I EVER get on a horse I will make sure they have experienced every despooking device I can think of.  Some of my techniques may seem a bit out of the ordinary but you won't think so when riding in a parade and a banner flies loose in front of your horse or a child escapes their mother and runs out screaming "Oh looky I want to pet the horsey"  or your trailriding and the proverbial deer bounds out of the trees or the idiot that loves to rev the engine or blow their horn as they fly by you as you are riding and your horse barely flicks an ear in that direction :) 

So here are a few of the horses we have and are working with and some of the techniques used to make sure that neither they nor their rider ever receive an injury because of the unexpected...............